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  1. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by Depths of Hell View Post
    I think it is any ones worst fear that owns a 60.

    I have gotten in the habit of checking the housing before I fire it up. And as you mentioned Calius, I run a stiff return spring in between the tyrottle arm and linkage. Cheap insurance.


    Sorry to hear B.C., had some road rash added to my 60 cause some one clipped me.
    There was no severe damage, all cosmetic luckily. More damage done to me actually. Regardless, write them off B.C. You can now consider it used and enjoy the hell out of it. But those first scratches are the toughest. 😆
    Def. A Great Idea To Check The Housing, It's Amazing how far it went before dodging a parked car, hitting a curb, and flipping. I've had The Worst Of Nightmares...Three Times including the above mention, Twice while riding (one cable kink and one came out and rested on housing) Puckered up and killed it. (Evo Key Switch). I need to mount a thumb kill switch.
    "I never drive faster than I can see. Besides that, it's all in the reflexes."

  2. #257
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    So after thinking about my throttle debacle I decided on a few things:

    1: I will always run rear brakes from here on out. Since I grabbed the fronts (because that was all I had), I lost the front end and that caused me to fall.

    2: I put in a MUCH stronger return spring. I got a new one from the hardware store and now the throttle snaps back crisply.

    3: I designed and printed the "throttle buddy." This is a little plastic clamp that clamps over the barrel and the end of the cable on the throttle. This prevents the end of the throttle cable from popping out of the barrel which is the primary cause of stuck throttles.

    Also I have always had a handlebar mounted kill switch and I always check it first to ensure that it works. Unfortunately, I panicked a bit which led me to pulling brake instead of killing the engine when I fell...

    Pics of the throttle buddy!

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    Instagram: @base_cat

  3. #258
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    That throttle buddy is ****in cool!! Most excellent idear seņior.

    I think you should try the front and rear brakes on one lever. I suspect you would really like it.
    Hell Fab

  4. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Depths of Hell For This Useful Post:

    Basement Cat (04-18-2017),blt113 (04-18-2017)

  5. #259
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Working on some new ideas...

    I've been annoyed at the limited deck space that I have due to my pipe. I was thinking about it and thought that it'd be great if I could rotate the engine back a bit since this would move the pipe up and towards the rear of the scooter.

    I ended up making a CAD of a new clutch side housing and printing a prototype. This part rotates the engine counter clockwise by 10 degrees. I could have pushed it a bit further but then the pipe would rub against my fender and that would be bad.


    Engine rotated by 10 degrees counterclockwise

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    Engine in stock orientation:

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    I was considering having a few of these made but I don't think that many people would actually want one so I'm probably going to scrap that idea and just modify a Skopod part to get what I'm looking for.
    Instagram: @base_cat

  6. #260
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    S. Oregon
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    Admittedly, I ride goofy so the engine/pipe/filter are not much of an issue for me. Amd of course, memory muscles lrevent the pipe burns.

    I would be in for one, but only if it helps with your endeavor. However, I think you are correct on the limited interest, at least on Billet Board. Most of us would just make our own over buying one. 😅
    Hell Fab

  7. #261
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    Feb 2012
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    I really wanted to rotate the engine still but I decided against having a new clutch side mount milled on a CNC. It would have costed about $100-200 for a one off piece which is a fair price but ultimately I decided that it'd be easier to simply machine the skopod part that I have now.

    I did a few things to the clutch side mount:

    First, I machined it down. The thing is pretty oversize so I slimmed it down to match the dimensions of the 78mm engine mount better.

    Second, I made the vent holes bigger. This was to make it lighter and to help with cooling a bit. I only made 2 of the vent holes larger since machining it down made some parts of it pretty thin and I didn't want to lose too much structural integrity.

    Finally I also drilled out the holes so that I could rotate the engine back. After having it mounted I realized that I probably could have rotated it even more which would have saved me even more deck space. However, this should work pretty well in the meantime. I drilled the holes in the piece without the use of a rotary table. I just made a CAD of it and noted the Cartesian coordinates relative to the center of the piece. Then I drilled them out on the mill using a B drill.

    All this work cut out an extra 1.2 ounces off of the part which is pretty good. Last I weighed this thing I think it was around 35.2 pounds. Maybe this will help get it closer to an even 35...

    Pictures:

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    My modified Skopod clutch housing next to a (less modified) Skopod clutch housing. Note the size difference:

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    Also in the works is piece that will allow me to center the clutch housing relative to the crank to ensure proper clutch alignment.
    Last edited by Basement Cat; 05-05-2017 at 02:01 PM.
    Instagram: @base_cat

  8. #262
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    Another thing...

    I wasn't happy with my fender relocator bracket. It worked ok while I had it but the design sucked. The way I had it setup the tube that the fender would mount to would constantly get loose which was a pain in the ***.

    I redesigned it so that it would simply use 2 pinch bolts to bite onto the old fender tube while also holding the new fender tube.

    Pics make more sense:
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    The old relocator (bottom) and the new relocator (top):

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    I punched in the letter F to make it easier to figure out what orientation the thing should be in. The two holes are not the exact same size; one is 5/8 and the other 41/64. The reason for that is that the tube on the frame is close to 41/64 than it is to 5/8 because of the layer of powder coat on it. By making the hole slightly oversize the fender relocator is able to slide right on and has a snug fit. The letter F was supposed to stand for "frame" because it was supposed to face the "frame" side. Obviously I punched it in the wrong spot which is why it face outwards and is upside down, lol.
    Last edited by Basement Cat; 05-05-2017 at 02:11 PM.
    Instagram: @base_cat

  9. #263
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    Wow this thread is getting long...

    I do have another update though.

    I designed a new tank bracket and printed it out on my 3D printer. This design looks pretty cool. I also made recessed hexagonal holes on the back to hold the tank bolt heads in place.

    Because this piece is plastic, I also machined an aluminum top hat spacer. This will protect the tank bracket from getting crushed when I tighten down the axle bolts.

    Pictures:
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    I also recessed the bolt holes on the clutch side of my skopod kit so that I could run the TM clutch since it's lighter than the 460 clutch.

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    Overall running the TM clutch and this new bracket will save me nearly 1/4 pound of weight. That's pretty nuts!
    Instagram: @base_cat

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to Basement Cat For This Useful Post:

    MrTea (05-14-2017)

  11. #264
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    Feb 2012
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    Some thing I did a bit ago.

    Made a centering tool for the clutch mount side:

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    Lightened the stem some more. Now it weighs under half a pound!

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    I've been trying to cut more weight out to make up for the rear brakes that I will install. I'm going to go for some Avid BB7s with Ti bolts along with a super light brake lever. Hopefully this will keep the total weight around 35 pounds.
    Instagram: @base_cat

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