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  1. #1
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    Talking Optional bolt on Mods & After Market products for the ESR750H Hoverboard

    Hi guys,

    Finally ordered me a GoPed HoverBoard,
    I know many Bolt on modifications and improvements can be done to the HB, i tried finding some of the old info from GPN, but its all gone.

    So i thought i'd start a topic with what i know and ask others add what they know, i sure do miss GPN.

    So here is what i got:

    Torkinator motor - on the must list for sure.
    Slakinater - same.
    Skopod front and rear MTB rotor adapter kits - I don't know if its a must, what do you say?
    Skopod Quick Change GSR Gear Hub - i guess its really only for those that need to play with sprockets a lot.

    I think that the ADA Billet Front Wheel/Disc for Mechanical/Hydraulic Brakes fits too, and i think they have a rear rim to match the set also,
    I'd like to hear if someone knows more about these.

    What else you got ?

  2. #2
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    I'm in to the gassers myself, but I can shed some light on the Skopod bolt ons.

    The quick change hub is a nice piece, and will help get the sprocket concentric. If it's in your budget, you won't regret the purchase. Mandatory? Of course not, but worth every penny.

    The ADA hydro has the adapter for the 6 bolt MTB brakes, so a Skopod adapter is not necessary, only on the rear with the quick change. There is not a matching rear rim to the ADA front five spoke wheel though.

    The MTB adapters are a must in my book. The Mad Dog calipers are a floating caliper and cause excessive drag. I for one think they are junk, an AVID BB5 or BB7 is a more better option and very affordable. But you can't really put a price on stoping power.
    Hell Fab

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  4. #3
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    If you want to freewheel, you can get the BCP Go-Cruise. And if you want a deck, I think zero error makes a billet deck for the esr.

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    Zen420 (06-03-2016)

  6. #4
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    Get the slackinator chain tensioner first.
    .

    On other upgrades, start with batteries and only then the Torkinator.
    If you know it will be the Torkinator and with LiPo's or LifePo's ( the Lifepo 's wont require controller reporgramming) you will want the controller reprogrammed not for batteries sake but to have the full 200 amps draw allowed to make full use of that Torkinator, it may be possible to get around buying that 170 USD piece if Goped agrees to reprogram yours on ship-in basis and ship it back to you with the purchase of their LiFePo or Lipo pack and/ or the Torkinator.

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    Zen420 (06-02-2016)

  8. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by displayking View Post
    If you want to freewheel, you can get the BCP Go-Cruise. And if you want a deck, I think zero error makes a billet deck for the esr.
    True, Goped Themsleves will sell the black deck as found on their Police cruiser directly as an additional alternative.

    A convenient way may be to remove the original griptape with some speciality cleaner and buy a "Griptape"of your choice in a local Skateshop, there is various colors and designs to choose from.

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  10. #6
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    Thanks for the Avid brakes info !

    the Pro Cruise are on the list too,

    why wont the LifePo4 controller need to be reprogrammed vs the lipo one ?

    For anyone interested if you want a 160 mm rotor on the front you need a 180 I.S front spacer to allow the caliper to fit over the longer rotor.
    the rear accepts up to 140 mm and doesn't require any mods to the calipers.

    What about pole / handlebar upgrades ?
    I'm a tall guy, any offers ? (i'l need the pole to fold for commuting)

  11. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zen420 View Post
    Thanks for the Avid brakes info !

    the Pro Cruise are on the list too,

    why wont the LifePo4 controller need to be reprogrammed vs the lipo one ?


    What about pole / handlebar upgrades ?
    I'm a tall guy, any offers ? (i'l need the pole to fold for commuting)
    The reprogramming only becomes relevant if you go into the last 30% of remaining range and again if you plan on riding till the red light lits ( and push from there).

    Both Li-types maintain a comparedly high voltage with settling points that indicate a capacity drop, the SLA cells drop in voltage analogue to capacity and pretty much linearly so the 3-lamp indicator on Li-cells has to be closely monitored once you near the last few percents of capacity ( which varies by age, exterior temperature and to a lesser degree peukert effect).

    The reason why liFePo does not strictly require reprogramming for a battery upgrade alone is cause the safe discharge minimum voltage is roundabout when the red light lits up in the SLA-settings of the controller.
    However going farther from there would quickly lead to overdischarge - they only drop this deep when they are effectively under 5-10% and one should not go below 20% for longevity reasons - hence you'd have not monitor closely.

    Frequent full discharge and overdischarge reduces durablity.


    With LiPo on the other hand there is the general fire risk which increases on overdischarge, and the unbalanced cells also lead to other cells to overcharge which again is a fire hazards and of course reduces lifespan as well as the battery packs efective range.

    Here i where differentiation based on BMS ( battery management system) are important, a good b,s will equalize the cell son each charge but may overuse once reference cell at the end of the pack so this goes first and/ or bleed the pack dry slowly and damages it when storing it for a couple of weeks only if its a bleeder type of BMS.

    The factory Goped packs have a overdischarge protection in their BMS which will deactivate the pack if one cells goes below minimum voltage or the pack is overdischarged due load, this can be risky in operation if the controller does not indicate a red light yet but the packs bms shuts one pack down and the second and subsequent ones go in series to this under high current draw - but the main reason really is that you maintain full range but at limited maximum performance in yellow and red mode when reporgramming for LiPo specs on LiPo cells without damaging the cells.

    If you "overbuy" on range capacity anyways this reprogramming is not strictly ncecessary.


    However for a Torkinator and on Li-Cells allowing the 200 Amps peack draw i'd want to have the controller settings on fully open to the full 200 amps the controller can do as compared to limitation to 120 amps as shipped in standard configuration.

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  13. #8
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    What he said^
    That was very clearly written and easy to understand for those who had similar questions.

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  15. #9
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    Found a typo in my post ( unsurprisingly):
    "... hence you'd have not monitor closely".

    This ment to say that one has to "to" ( i typed "not"- damn autocorrect) monitor the battery indicator closely when approaching the least remaining percentage in range/ capacity.


    Emphatizing the value of buying more range than actually required:

    - You do not necessarily need a new drive controller when converting to LiPo or LiFePo, this makes a 169 USD + s&h saving.
    - Your batteries will last for more recharge cycles and the risk of damage to individual cells and thus the whole pack is reduced as well.
    - You can go a bit farther one the handfull of occasions you actually do need it.

    There is no relevant downsides, the fact that charging sometims may take a bit longer since the chargers go onj a slower rail once 80% of capacity is reached and the bit of additional weight is clearly outweighted by the advantages in durability.
    On a related sidenote, it is not required to charge Li-Batteries up to maximum each time and not even good for them.
    Panasonic offers a Eco Mode on their Laptop cells that does not charge them above 80%, this same maximum is used in high-heat environments - and they can last for a decade and more without loosing capacity ( "range") and through sometimes more than 10 000 charging cycles ( in that reduced spectrum 40-80%).

  16. #10
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    not meaning to hijack the thread, but just researching ditching the SLAs in my esr750ex..

    so its possible to buy the lifepo and bms and plug and play?
    It's just a scooter, it'll be fun they said!

  17. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SantaBarbara805 View Post
    not meaning to hijack the thread, but just researching ditching the SLAs in my esr750ex..

    so its possible to buy the lifepo and bms and plug and play?
    The ones Goped offers since 2016 are new and noone inn here had posted anything about them yet, but if Goped offers a kit as "plug and play" it should work.

    The main challenge would be if one pack alone is set up to handle the 120 ampere maximum draw.

  18. #12
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    I need to replace the front brakes on my ESR 750 and would like a rear brake as well. Will those skopod adapters work on the ESR? And if yes do I need another bracket to attach to the stock front fork in order to run a MTB disk caliper? For the rear, what options are there?

  19. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zen420 View Post
    Hi guys,

    Finally ordered me a GoPed HoverBoard,
    I know many Bolt on modifications and improvements can be done to the HB, i tried finding some of the old info from GPN, but its all gone.

    So i thought i'd start a topic with what i know and ask others add what they know, i sure do miss GPN.

    So here is what i got:

    Torkinator motor - on the must list for sure.
    Slakinater - same.
    Skopod front and rear MTB rotor adapter kits - I don't know if its a must, what do you say?
    Skopod Quick Change GSR Gear Hub - i guess its really only for those that need to play with sprockets a lot.

    I think that the ADA Billet Front Wheel/Disc for Mechanical/Hydraulic Brakes fits too, and i think they have a rear rim to match the set also,
    I'd like to hear if someone knows more about these.

    What else you got ?


    The standard brake disk is working great, no real reason to switch it. Some particularly heavy fellows did, but this was always a switch of disc and calipers so it is likely that imporvements came by using a hydraulic brake caliper and not so much of changing the disc.

    Goped is offering a nice looking rear brake caliper mount, too - but consider the BCP free wheel adapter ( buy from Davesmotors or BCP's facebook page until DDM is restocked) which will increase range and reduce chain/ sproket wear quite noticably.
    This adapter does not wrk with rear brakes.

    Slakinator should be done first in case you want to wait with the mods for a while.


    The ADA rims seems to be iffy a bit since the screws head and the rims carvings do allow for some travel while mounting it together, otherwise they do look a tad nicer and more polished than the stock rims.
    If you want to buy them for reasons of locks in second but foremost for the brake disk i'd recommend to hold on with this until you tested the stock brake or a hydraulic caliper with the stock disk, you may not have the urge to upgrade after all.

  20. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by The HEFF View Post
    I need to replace the front brakes on my ESR 750 and would like a rear brake as well. Will those skopod adapters work on the ESR? And if yes do I need another bracket to attach to the stock front fork in order to run a MTB disk caliper? For the rear, what options are there?
    The ESR caliper mount works with industry-standard bike brake calipers no adapter is required.

    The ADA calipers as used on the kit sold a while back are not better than the stock Maddog brakes, a tad worse but with wider travel so to allow the usage of the older Bigfoot-type thick brake disk.

    You can choose of the brakes avaiable for bikes with disk brakes, there is plenty of Kits from Shimano, Hanes and other manufacturers on hydraulic brakes and countless more on manual disk brakes.

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