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  1. #1
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    Contract's GSR40 Dream GoPed Build: Rebuilding The Once Lost..

    Going to start sharing my process on the build in one thread here.

    If you somehow missed the story about it being stolen and found eight years later read this: http://www.billetboard.com/showthrea...o)-Pics-Inside

    ....

    First off...

    Enormous thanks to: Jesus420 for shipping out the ProPole FTG so I can ride again! (This was the only part preventing me from taking the first ride again; can't wait till it arrives.)

    To start: Will be ordering a ton of parts from DDM & ADA towards the end of the month, so for now it's mostly cleaning, assembly, and a ton of polishing.

    Anyways, here's some photos to get started.

    1.

    Tried my best at mirror polishing the crank case. First photo is 150 grit, second is 800 I think, last are the finished version.

    Ended up doing 150, 400, 800, 1250-1500, and finally 2000 with polish compound.

    It will look 100x better once I get a dremel and buffing wheel going at it. (This was all done by hand) Plus the polish I have right now doesn't work that great at all.

    ...

    150.



    400.



    Finished: (Minus machine buffing/polish)






  2. #2
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    Great start so far. Can't wait to see the progress on this rebuild.

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    contract (02-23-2014)

  4. #3
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    I'm glad to see you started a thread for this build, it was meant to be. I have thought about polishing my case, but haven't gotten in the mood for that extent of dedication. Just an FYI, I'm sure you have noticed cases and heads are a "rough" texture. They were made that way to allow better heat dissapation. I'm sure you will get some people telling you it is bad for your crank case because you're trapping heat in by polishing it. Personally, I have never had my cases on my G43 get very hot, and I checked it numerous times after long rides.

    I'm excited to see what you come up with, keep up the good work!

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    contract (02-23-2014)

  6. #4
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    Thanks gentlemen!

    Hmm, had no idea about the heat dissipation... I was assuming the only thing to really worry about was the top cylinder itself. (Didn't even think about the cases, until you mentioned it, whoops ha)

    Hope it doesn't do any damage. Planned on doing engine enamel on the cylinder, pipe wrap, etc. To get the temp down so hopefully those help balance it out more.

    Part 2.

    (Worn out, so much polishing, lol..)

    Got the fan cover off, (Thanks Jacksongopedguy and Wantsaped2 for helping me figure it out)

    Bought some spray can paint stripper tonight at Home Depot.. Couldn't believe how awesome it worked. First coat it was 95% off, except I couldn't fit my tool into the smaller areas. Stripped it a second time, but the process was such a breeze. Spray and you're done. (I remember when you had to get a bucket, a bunch of stripped, pour that in, etc, etc.)

    Before: (Pre-sanding)



    After: (Mirror polishing. Need a new 1250-1500 pad, the old one was destroyed.. Hence why there are a ton of scratches still visible)




    .....

    Resembling the engine back on the frame for the rest of the night...
    Last edited by contract; 02-23-2014 at 05:52 PM.

  7. #5
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    Glad to hear you got it off crankcase and fan cover look good mirror polished might have to try it myself.

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    contract (02-23-2014)

  9. #6
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    Looking good! I'm sure pics aren't going it any justice.

    Ps what's up with the vise grips??

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    contract (02-23-2014)

  11. #7
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    I'm certain the thought about billet cases may come to mind, they do not have a rough texture like stock cases. The rough texture allows better cooling and makes it possible to use less material, therefore keeping costs down. Billet cases are made thicker to compensate for this. Sorry, not trying to derail your thread here.

    Are you planning to do a true mirror polish?

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    contract (02-23-2014)

  13. #8
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    Thanks guys!

    Vice grips were just to show the mirror reflection. My office area has awful lighting compared to the sunlight. Just wanted to give you all a better idea, lol.

    Sneak peak of the engine assembled.



    So close... Forgot to remove the paint from those inner areas. Will have to fix them later.



    Future plans:

    - 4.5" K&N Filter.
    - ADA HP Carb w/ Billet intake.
    - MSD spark plug cable.
    - Billet Pullstart handle.
    - Black enamel painted cylinder.
    - ADA Silver Billet Headkit. (Holding off on this for a bit)
    - Black painted clutch housing.

    More to come...

  14. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Depths of Hell View Post
    I'm certain the thought about billet cases may come to mind, they do not have a rough texture like stock cases. The rough texture allows better cooling and makes it possible to use less material, therefore keeping costs down. Billet cases are made thicker to compensate for this. Sorry, not trying to derail your thread here.

    Are you planning to do a true mirror polish?
    Thanks for the info man. All good.

    I had planned on doing a full mirror polish.. But I think it looks great how it is right now. Just wanted a silver/polished look instead of the dull, rough grey.

    Most likely going to ride it for a week, see how hot it gets and holds up, and then go from there.

  15. #10
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    Looks good! GoPro the victory ride!
    Lookin for a new goat...mine is wore the hell out!

    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtmonkey View Post
    Slitz is taken. We'll let you be Clitz.

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    contract (02-24-2014)

  17. #11
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    niz is offline Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow
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    looking good so far.
    Quote Originally Posted by Pushinit View Post
    There's a list? Wow that means Arick dodge was first and NIZ was second. Good to know.

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  19. #12
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    Found photos of the SBF roller before it was converted to a GSR40. Hated the spindle drive setup.. The engine mount part that tightens the spindle down in the front kept getting de-threaded. After two new mounts getting broken I had enough and started to build the GSR40. I remember riding and having to hold my foot over the air filter to keep the spindle pressed onto the tire, lol. Good times...

    Just sharing, enjoy. (Need a place to store/keep these old photos)..




















  20. #13
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    Picked up some exhaust wrap tonight for the pipe and ties. (DEI Titanium Wrap 2").

    It was 15 feet, which was WAY too much; I have enough to do another pipe.. Going to hang onto it for later on. ~7 feet left.

    If anyone is ever thinking of doing this watch this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kf8oIF_3s4E

    The cable ties were not tightening, didn't realize you had to use needle nose plyers, lol... Ended up breaking 2 of them pulling too tight, but they are just fine and are still plenty tight. I just can't make a clean cut for the moment.

    Photos: (Still need one more clamp on the top, might do a second on the bottom, so it's extra snug)

    ... Will be upgrading to a Flowsystems in the future, but for now:



    Also picked up some stuff at the store tonight:


  21. #14
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    When you use pipe wrap don't overlap the edges too much. Otherwise it will not let enough heat escape and could possibly cause the pipe to crack. I used to run pipe wrap to prevent a burnt calf. Then I noticed that when I had it on my pipe kept cracking 3-7 inches from the manifold. It was also an old pipe so take it with a grain of salt. I don't use header wrap anymore, it hides the awesomeness. Not to say people shouldn't run it as it has saved my calf in the past many times.

    There is an aerosol clear coat that you can spray on header wrap that will help prevent drying and the inevitable fraying.
    Last edited by Depths of Hell; 02-24-2014 at 08:56 PM.

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  23. #15
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    For sure, thanks for the advice man!

    Read about pipes cracking online as well from the moisture that gets inside of the wrap.

    Not sure why DDM sells 1" pipe wrap though.. Every spec guide I found was saying 1" is too small for over 1.5" pipe width. With the pipe I have now it's really wide towards the top end. So sort of glad I did some research and went with the 2" before rushing into things.

    Going to pick up this: (To help prevent moisture and protect the wrap from getting nasty)



    Wrapped it at a 1/4", but the thing is though, it's almost impossible to do that when you're on the pipe curve going upwards. Had to use 2 ties within an inch of each other at the top just to prevent that and keep things tight.

    , But if it does crack, that's alright.. Plan on switching to a Flowsystems pipe in the future.

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